Read about Ron & Viv's journey so far - the Gobi Desert.
We had to replace Neil's shock absorber bush.
A group of two-humped camels enjoy a drink.
Headed to Yoly Am (Vultures mouth) Gorge - walking into the gorge.
We made camp on a bank of grass beside a small tricking stream in the gorge – it was a beauty.
Ron & Viv outside their Ger.
We set of in the rain on a wet and muddy track.
Another wet night near the ‘Flaming Cliffs' and another Ger camp and another group of lovely, friendly Mongolians who ran the camp.
He wasn't on his own, our Patrol went down as we tried to find a route to go round him and snatch him out – we ended up being pulled out backwards by Neil.
Passed by an impressive small range of bare rock mountains on our way to the village of Bayan-onjuul .
Ron spent an hour or so trying to communicate with a couple of the local herdsmen who stopped by for a look & chat.
.JPG)
23rd August to 2nd September 2008
MONGOLIA
The Gobi Desert
South to Dalanzadgad
Our first camp after leaving UlaanBaatar was about 80km south of the city. It's quite dramatic as you get on the southern side of the mountain range away from the city, the change from 21st century city and all its pollution, crowds and congestion to the grassy hills dotted with the white of ger camps with their flocks of sheep and goats being herded by cloaked horseman. We all knew what we preferred! Our Grassy Hollow Camp (GPS 47°25'05”N 106°45'58”E) was quite good. It was windy for a short time and bloody cold for the whole night. Neil was feeling a bit crook so we stayed another day here – it was pleasant enough and we only had a couple of locals visit us – a few on horseback and another family in a Land Cruiser.
We headed south, the road pretty reasonable for most of the time and there was even a bit of wildlife around – we saw five antelopes just moving away from the road. They are hunted a lot by the locals who want them for food or see them as competition for food for their stock. There were a lots of camels around as well, but most are branded and just wander at will. We had to stop to repair Neil's Truck – a front shock absorber bush had chopped out; this place is pretty hard on suspensions!
Got to Mandalgovi (GPS 47°46'03”N 106°16'23”E) where we stopped to resupply with food, beer and fuel. You can never buy a lot in these small places and never everything you need but you pick up a few items at each stop. The main market here was in an old 3-story building – probably to keep out of the wind. There were a lot of dress shops, some small hardware stalls, a phone shop and small jewelry shop as well as a fairly well set-up store where we even found bread.
Headed south and the road soon reverted to a series of tracks following the old telegraph line south. The wind blew all day – just the direction changed – it was a bloody pain!! Tried to find a spot tucked up in amongst some low hills about 60km south of Mandalgovi. Our Gale Camp (GPS 45°23'37”N 105°48'55”E) became just that as the wind increased in ferocity and strength. We had hardly had tea – which was a bit of a quickie before we decided to pull the tent down. I slept in the front seat of the Patrol, Viv slept in with Gay in the back of Neil's Ford. Neil &Helen had decided to brave the tent but it was a very sleepless night for them!
It was an early start to the day – the bloody wind still blowing. We had nick all to do – Rod & Kate boiled our billy, gave us a brew and toast and all we had to do was sort out the vehicle and we were ready to go. Needed to fit another bolt (the 3rd ) to Neil's rear right spring hanger which was done pretty quickly and we still were on the road just after 7.30!
On our way south the road varied from very good (close to the towns) to a more normal set of tracks wandering across the desert steppe. For the most part it was good driving and we cruised along at 70-80kph without too many hassles. Did nearly 300km for the day so that was pretty good.
Followed an old truck for the last few km into Dalandzadgad (GPS 43°34'21”N 104°25'40”E), which is the largest town this far south and we are not all that far from the China border. On the outskirts of the town a few scattered buildings and a small narrow gauge railway indicated to me that it was once an ammo holding facility. In town a large wall enclosure looked like an old military base. There are the remains of an old monastery here – this province once had over 50 but the Soviet era saw the end of them – which has seen all the temples destroyed and now has been converted into a running track, sports field, etc. The centre of town has a wide treed medium strip complete with a big fountain – pity it was in ruins and no water was anywhere around. Still the town is undergoing a bit of a building boom – almost definitely on the back of tourism. A new airport is being built, roads are being bitumised, buildings are going up and there seems to be a bit of money around as the shops and the market were busy.
West to the Vultures Mouth
After we changed some money at the bank (found an ATM but it spat our card out!), bought some beer and filled with water at the town's community pump we headed west. Got ourselves a little bamboozled on the huge number of tarcks but found our way eventually to where we wanted to go.
Our Critter Camp (GPS 43°33'33”N 104°02'32”E) just east of the telegraph line and the main track thru the ranges to Bayandalay was about 1km north of what was the entry gate to the Yolyn Am, but we didn't know that at the time. We were amongst the foothills of the Zuun Sayhany Nuruu (ranges), on the edge of a dry creek bed. The small animal life coming out of their burrows in the bank of the creek kept us amused for ages.
The Natural Museum, which is located close to the main gate is only small and the few rooms have displays on the region's wildlife – trouble is they are old and daggy – with the taxidermy not being good in the first place. They had a stuffed snow leopard as well as a skin, along with stuffed wild ass, wolf, a few foxes, lynx and another similar size cat as well as an antelope. A small display of dinosaur bones and eggs was there as well. Still the locals are proud of it and we gladly paid US$3 each to go in.
There were a line of ger-like shops, between the museum and the gate and of course the girls went shopping. There were a couple of young kids around while one of the lady's who owned one shop had unbelievable hair – down to floor.
Headed up to the Park gate (GPS 43°32'55”N 104°02'16”E) where we paid our T3000 ($3)each and entered the park. This is the Gurvan Saikhan National Park just one of a number of parks and reserves that cover much of the Gobi (13.7% or 21.53 million ha, of the country is inside reserves of one sort or another) – this one is the second biggest in the country being 2.7 million ha in size and protects much of the surrounding range country and the area's wildlife.
There were a lots of birds of prey and you can bet they feed on the small mammals known as Pikas . There are two species – one bigger than the other and they are everywhere scuttling to and fro from their burrows and collecting green scrub in their mouths for food or nest material. The other small mouse-like animal we often see outside their smaller burrow, soaking up the sun, is the Mongolian Gerbil with its long feathery tail.
Headed the 10km along a good track that winds thru very pleasant range country to the car park at the start of the Yoly Am (Vultures mouth) Gorge . Here there were quite a few old vans parked (their tourists having already set out or about to), a couple of people selling souvineers as well as a family with a group of 10 horses for riding. Four of our group decided that was the way to go – Viv, Gay, Rod and Neil all decided to ride in while the rest of us walked. My back was crook so I wasn't game to ride in. The horses were little beauties – small, stocky, but really strong.
The gorge (GPS 43°29'20”N 104°04'00”E) located in the Zuun Saikhan Uuul range was about 2km long, with a small creek trickling thru it; the gorge slowly got narrower and the walls steeper to the stage where it was just a couple of metres wide and the narrow creek tumbled over a small waterfall. A short distance later the gorge began to widen as we passed thru to the other side of the range. In winter and for up to eight months of the year, this gorge fills with ice up to 10 metres thick – it would be like a refrigerator!
You'd be surprised where you find the souvineer sellers though -- there were a couple spread along the gorge walk selling small wood carvings and stone engravings. Helen got a tapestry – A day in the life in Mongolia – and when you looked at it, amongst the many images were a women giving birth, a bloke drunk and spewing and a dog eating the vomit, a couple having a scruff and a women having a crap along with a heap of other normal living experiences. It was a beauty!
4WD thru Dugany Am Gorge
Got to the Track junction (GPS 43°30'39”N 104°01'02”E) to Dugany Am Gorge and the route quickly climbs to a steep pass and then drops through a long winding gorge – very reminiscent of creek and gorges in the Flinders Ranges back home – but lacking the gum tress and the rock strata.
We wandered along enjoying the passing scenery and when a trickle of water started flowing down the gorge and green grass started to occasionally appear on the low banks along the gorge we decided we'd camp. Found a nice spot and set up camp – it wasn't even 3pm! Our Gorge Camp (GPS 43°29'35”N 103°52'03”E) was a little beauty – we rinsed some clothes and had a bit of a shower – the water cold from the creek. We had only 2 vehicles come past while an English couple who were camped down the creek wandered past later in the day. Their young Mongolian guide who could speak good English wandered past later – he had seen three Ibex up on the ridgetops above our camp.
The day had been great – not too much wind, sunny and pleasantly warm. Had a few beers, a good meal, watched the little rodents gather feed for winter – they are very cute.
Next morning, a few km west, when we had thought we had just got through the narrowest part of the gorge we came to what I called ‘The Pinch ” (GPS 43°29'26”N 103°51'27”E) where it was only with a lot of guiding by Neil and a steady hand and foot by Rod that Rod got their vehicle and camper through. By all accounts this spot had been widened back in the mid 1960s so the small Russian 4x4 vehicles could get through – before that it was just a horse trail. Soon after the gorge opened out and there was a herder's ger camp sat on a low knoll just above the course of the creek while on the north side of the creek were the ruins of the old Buddhist monastery of Gurj Lamiin Khiid (GPS 43°29'02”N 103°50'55”E). The track climbs the banks of the creek and quite suddenly you are on the wide open plain (GPS 43°29'11”N 103°50'56”E).
A few km later we met the main road (track really) at the small tidy settlement of Bayan with just a few houses and couple of scattered gers (GPS 43°29'29”N 103°41'21”E). We turned west and headed for Bayandalay (GPS 43°27'54”N 103°30'45”E), which we could see sitting out on the wide flat plain between the lines of ranges. It's a small village with a lot of derelict or near derelict buildings, still there were a few shops and while you could get soft drink and a few supplies (sweet biscuits are always available) the shop selling beer was closed. Rod and I checked the place out but no luck!
To the Hongorynels – the Biggest Dunes in the Gobi
Pushed on, a scattered line of small sand dunes visible just to our south. We weren't on the track shown on the map and we passed south of a salty lake – Bayan Tohomium Nuur. I think we picked up the main track just west of the lake. As we progressed the dunes to our south became bigger and more continuous – these are the start of the Hongorynels – the biggest dunes in the Gobi. These dunes – a 100km long tongue of sand up to 12km wide - are up to 300m high.
About 20km from our destination – one of the ger tourist camps close to the dunes – we stopped for lunch and Rod discovered he had a broken RH rear spring – two leaves had gone. Between us we manufactured a bracket out of a side plate from an ARB snatch block and got the leaves back into place and held in place. Rang Syd at ARB HQ and once he realized it was an OME spring broken, he was preparing to airfreight a spring to UB – cost about $170 for the spring, $400 or so for the freight!
Got to a ger tourist camp – Gobi Discovery (GPS 43°46'30”N 102°20'22”E) - and once we had checked it out and the price (US$35 each for meals and ger) we moved in. It was very windy, overcast and cold and after a long afternoon fixing Rod's spring, a bed in a Ger and dinner looked much more inviting than camping. The place had about 25 people staying there although it could take more. The beds weren't bad, the toilets and showers fine, food pretty reasonable and the beer and wine even slightly cool. A young fellow there spoke good English, which was very handy; we booked a camel ride for the next morning. It began to rain soon after we got there and it didn't let up!
To the Historic ‘Flaming Cliffs'
It rained all night – not heavy but steady soaking rain which one of the guides said they hadn't seen in 10 years. We couldn't even see the dunes from our camp it was so misty and they were about 1km away.
As we crossed over the Zoolongiyn Nuruu range the mist came down and visibility was only 100 metres or so. It would have been great in clear weather. The rain and wind continued and it was a slow drive (more because of Rod's busted spring but also because of the slippery wet conditions).
Got to the small ramshackle village of Bulgan (GPS 44°05'48”N 103°32'37”E) and in the ‘square' there were a couple of gers where ‘fast food' was available. It was still windy, raining and bloody cold.
A gray van arrived with a very sick guy and as nearly sick an old woman on board. There is a medical centre here – but they are generally just a building and may have some staff but normaly no medicine or equipment!
We parked Rod's truck behind a biggish building, out of the wind, and knocked his spring back in place and then wired the front in so it couldn't move too far forward. It worked pretty well over the next couple of days.
The girls enjoyed the ‘fast food' ger and the family getting the food ready – it took over an hour but that is ‘fast' in Mongolian terms. The people allowed us to shoot a bit of video and pics and enjoyed the attention. The food – mutton dumplings – tasted pretty good and were warming after our sojourn out in the weather repairing Rods Truck. Another mob of travelelrs moved in just after the boys got in so we moved back out into the cold and rain and to the vehicles to head east to the Flaming Cliffs and hopefully a ger tourist camp or two.
We got to the Gobi Oasis ger camp (GPS 44°09'47”N 103°40'38”E) – the first one we came to - at about 3pm and once Viv had checked the place out we moved in – it was still raining and windy as well (still). Spent the afternoon in the restaurant writing up the diary and catching up with photo filing. It was the most pleasant place to be even though the roof leaked a bit – they don't have to worry about rain too much!
The Ger makes a lot of sense. Round and low it allows the wind to flow over it with little impact on the ger or its inhabitants; made of felt they don't flap or crack in the wind like canvas and they mute the sound of whatever is happening outside – wind, rain(!) or whatever; they are warm, even without a small stove which most of the herder's gers have; yet they are cool in the heat and keep the sand and dust out. When they are mobile the ger is carried on camels, on a cart pulled by yaks or in the back of a truck; they take about 3-4 hours to erect and everything happens inside the ger. If the herder lives in a village during winter - as we have seen most of the villages and towns consists of a fenced enclosure where 1, 2 or 3 gers can be erected along with a small hut or shed. Even city folk know or have a ger to live in – it is very much part and parcel of being Mongolian! In UB we saw ‘factories' making felt, and from the felt, gers, while other smaller establishments were making the frame and centre pole set-up, or the stove for the ger.
Got up to a clear sunny morning. The distant mountains – the Zoolongiyn Nuruu - that are the backdrop to the great Hongorynels dunes we had wanted to ride a camel to were now covered in snow – that's how cold it was! In fact the lower range we had passed through to get to Bulgan also had a sprinkling of snow but that didn't last long. Even the higher mountains lost much of the snow covering by later that day – we could still see them as we headed north!
Continued on along the crest of the breakaway country to the lookout over the Flaming Cliffs (GPS 44°08'18”N 103°43'39”E) or to give them there proper name, Bayanzag. Here during five expeditions during the 1920s, the American, Roy Chapman Andrews , found the first dinosaur eggs and over 100 different dinosaurs. He also discovered the earliest known mammal skull and a lost tribe of people from 20,000 years ago. He was a great adventurer; worked in US Intelligence during WW1 and explored many remote countries including Alaska and Borneo. He wrote a number of books including Whale Hunting with Gun and Camera in 1916, Across Mongolian Plains in 1921 and On the Trail of Ancient Man , to name just a few. It is strongly believed he was the model on what Hollywood made into Indiana Jones! The best biography of him is, by all accounts, Dragon Hunter, by Charles Galenkamp.
Now of course wherever tourists go there are locals setting up stalls selling all sorts of stuff but here at Flaming Cliffs it was mainly rocks of different sorts, petrified wood and pieces of ancient bone and dinosaurs, although we couldn't see any eggs. Mind you it is highly illegal to be found with any dinosaur remains so we didn't buy any although there were the ancient bones of a dinosaur foot. We took a few pics, talked to a few other tourists who were mainly in the dozen or so grey Volga vans that seem to dominate the tourist trade. We had spoken to a guide the previous night and she had said while they prefer the Land Cruiser in the desert country (for their comfort and speed) in the mountains of the north of the country they preferred the basic but light Russian vans. They seem to be very capable – especially when you consider most of the drivers can fix them on the side of the track, whatever the problem, and spare parts are easy to find – we saw a new head gasket and other spares for them in a small general store we stopped at in a small village.
North to Ulaan Baatar
We headed back along the top of the cliffs, stopped for morning tea overlooking the valley and plains below, then descended to the depression floor. We stopped at an ephemeral lake that had formed from the recent rain. The track heads west along the valley floor and we got to a well established tourist ger camp complete with large turtle, a water point put in by Rotary International and a road junction (Ger Junction - GPS 44°10'29”N 103°41'47”E). A short distance west we came to the telegraph line north of Bulgan at what we called Tele Line Junction (GPS 44°15'09”N 103°40'36”E).
Stopped to help a group of girls and their driver who was busy trying to change a clutch in his Opel van. He was there Uni lecturer – but pretty handy with the spanners. They had been stuck for nearly 24 hours. While Rod and us boys sorted out his spring, Viv chatted to the girls and gave them some bread.
The country changed as we headed north and we got into ‘Badland' country with low rocky hills, a few mesas, and rock towers surrounding some low swampy country. As we followed the main track across it became wetter and boggier and then R&K got stuck. I skirted around to try and get them out and really got bogged. We couldn't risk getting Neil close enough to rescue R&K so we used the Max Trax and after about an hour's work and about six or seven lays of the trax we got them to drier land. Then Rod found only one of the free wheeling hubs were locked in – we were wondering why there was no drive to the front. Neil snatched me out and then we tried to get Rod back to where we were. That was more fun. With all of us then together we picked one of the many tracks north and headed on – ploughing thru the slop and crap until Neil bogged down in one soft patch.
By this time we had lent our shovel to a grey Volga van that had been bogged for nearly as long as us; then we lent him the Max Trax – he was out soon afterwards. Rod snatched Neil out and then with full revs we pushed on and got to safer ground about 3km north of where we handed entered the bloody swamp!
Our Boggy Camp (GPS 44°28'54”N 103°50'35”E) was on top of a low pebbly dune above the swamp that had caused us so much problem. A X-Trail pulled up and camped close to us - he was heading south and didn't want to cross the swamp close to last light - a good call!
Next morning we got to the village of Mandal-Ovoo (GPS 44°39'06”N 104°02'53”E) and found our way to the store (they were laying pipes in the place making it a bit of a challenge). A couple of young kids found us and brought out their bag of home made souvineers to sell us. They weren't great but we bought a few anyway
Went to the water point which was a hand pump in a small shed. There were a few locals filling up and we topped up our water as well – it was cold and clear. A lady came up with here young baby in a carrier on their watercart and Viv got some good pics.
We passed too quickly through the almost picturesque village of Delgerhangay (GPS 45°14'44”N 104°48'26”E). We headed north from the village and about 15km from town struck NNE and got to the old mining community of Tsagaan-Ovoo , (this route is quite different to the one shown in the Atlas). It was a small mining complex but the place has long been abandoned although there are a couple of gers and family's using the odd building or two. What they mined here is anybody's guess.
Just north of here are the ruins of what was once quite a large monastery situated at a track junction (GPS 44°46'17”N 105°13'47”E). Marked on the maps as Bayan-Ovoo, there is not much there apart from a herder and his ger camped near the old water point.
Turned more north here and drove across rolling hills lightly grassed and with flocks of sheep and goats dotted here and there. Stopped for the evening in a low valley overlooking a low area that is occasionally flooded, the recent rain pooling in a few places. Our Valley View camp (GPS 46°11'47”N 105°28'16”E) was a little windy to start but as the sun began to set it calmed off a little. We had a visitor on a motorbike but he was more curious than anything else.
We headed north, the country became a little more lusher as we drove on and left the plains and rolling low hills behind and got into a bit more range country. There were bare rock mountains to our left while green covered rocky ranges stretched away to the east. Tucked in amongst the rocky mountains – they were really quite spectacular - was a small tourist ger camp near a Buddhist shrine. A small lake was at the base of the largest rocky peak – Zorhgol Hayrhan uul - but I'm not sure how permanent the water is.
As we got closer to the village of Bayan-onjuul, which is located just a few km west off the main north track we could see a large area of bare dunes – the Ar Burd Els - to our east, tucked under a range that formed the northern boundary of the dunes. A pretty good tourist ger camp is based there.
Went into the village, which was very tidy with many of the main buildings seemingly freshly painted. Took a bit of time to find the shops but did find the school which was in party mode with balloons flying – the first school day of the year so many proud parents were there – who had come by Volga van and many by horse (which were tied up out the front) - around a small courtyard where a microphone had been set up with big speakers, while a large plate of biscuits in pride of place on a table out the front were awaiting the celebrations. There were, of course a heap – well a dozen or so (it is a small village) - of excited kids in their new school uniforms. Because of the festivities all the government buildings were flying the national flag and most of the shops and business were closed. Still we found one open amongst the line of shops in the family houses side of town and bought some bread and beer.
Pushed on up the road and saw a small mob of antelope – they were running and crossed the track in front of us – they were impressive animals sleek and light tan in colour. As we wound our way into the low hills towards the pass of Ih Gangyn davaa we found a valley amongst low hills and set up camp – it was about 1pm!
Two herders on their horses from their ger camp across the wide valley that the road passes through came over and we sat and chatted for an hour os so – They couldn't understand English and Ron sure couldn't understand Mongolian but it was a bit of fun. They wanted Ron to ride one of the horses, the youngest guy was 16 and had finished school and their herd of goats and sheep numbered in excess of 1000. Later when they had all been rounded up in the valley below us and near the ger camp there was closer to 2000 head along with a few cows – which had invaded our camp at one stage in the late afternoon!
This must be the last country on earth that relies so much on the horse (and camel) for transport. It is really fantastic to see and experience! They are so good and so at home in the saddle it is unbelievable. With the price of fuel going over A$2/litre and grass so readily available the horse just may stay around here for a long time yet – we hope so. They seem to have such a ‘no hassle' life yet have taken on the accoutrements of the modern world that they want to – nearly every herder's family ger camp has a sat dish and solar panel out the front and a TV inside one of the ger tents that make up their camp.
Nearly everything else comes from the herds they maintain. Sheep provide wool for felt (for their ger) and clothes as well as mutton, goats provide meat, milk and cashmere (one of the biggest money earners), camels provide transport, meat, and wool while horses are the very soul of the Mongolian. They provide transport and there are horses for kids and girls and working the stock, horses for pack animals, horses for racing, horses for milk and of course, horses for meat. Some herders have a mob of horses numbering in the hundreds and as we have seen babies are carried on a horse before they can crawl, let alone walk. We have seen kids as young as 6 or 7 riding a horse like a pro rounding up sheep and goats – a lot of responsibility for such a young boy or girl!
Late next morning we were back in UlaanBaatar and back at the Oasis Guesthouse, washing vehicles and trying to find if the spring for Rod's truck was in town. We sorted out emails, wrote up the web and relaxed just a little. After exploring the city over the next couple of days we are to head for eastern Siberia and the Russian Far East – only a month and it will all be over!
Return to main Trip diary page
Link to Picture Gallery Page for the Gobi Desert.
Our first camp out from Ulaanbataar in amongst grassy hills and we had our own herd of Mongolian horses grazing nearby
Made it into Dalandzadgad the largest town this far south and we are not all that far from the China border – a place to get some money out of the bank.
Our ‘critter camp' beside the hills and dry creek bed.
Headed to Yoly Am (Vultures mouth) Gorge in the park and Viv, Gay, Neil and Rod took a horse ride to the mouth of the gorge, while Ron, Kate & Helen walked.
A sturdy and strong Mongolia horse (don't call them ponies – they get upset) at the gorge.
Rod, with the widest vehicle / camper, took some negotiating and guidance to get through.
Rod discovered that he had a broken spring, so an enforced stop for a couple hours gave the boys a chance to patch it up enough to continue.
We passed over a range in the rain and heavy mist.
At last the rain stopped and the morning was sunny and clear with snow on the top of the mountains.
Viv & Ron at the Flaming Cliffs.
Rod went down and it took a couple of hours of hard work to extricate him from the mud.
Got to the village of Mandal-Ovoo and found the local water house/pump and replenished our water supply – this family was getting some water.
Winding through the Ulaan Sayrin Davaa pass.
Our last camp before getting back to Ulaanbataar was amongst some low hills towards the pass of Ih Gangyn davaa , there were a few gers around and BIG herds of animals (cattle, goats & sheep).
