27th June to 8th July 2008
FINLAND
Fir Tree Covered Finland
The first night in Finland we camped amongst a pine forest, which
was pleasant enough except for the mossies and then the rain. It was
something that became the norm for the next few days in this country.
I guess you can't get 186,000 lakes studding the country along with
numerous rivers that were in full spate while we were there with the
snow melt without rain and we got our fair share of that in Finland.
Next day we got to Inari where we stopped to check
out the excellent Sami Museum and Culture Centre called Siida .
It includes an outdoor museum and a very informative and well set up
Northern Lappland Nature Centre. It was excellent and we spent a few
hours and lunch there.
As we wandered the main street of the town the temperature was a ‘balmy'
11°C. From there we stopped at the supermarket and refueled – it was
just $2.38/litre; what a bargain
We took the turn off to Lemmenjoki NP reportedly
one of the best wilderness areas still left in Europe and it is the
largest remaining pine forest on the continent. Once we got there we
found the only camping areas were on private land unless we wanted
to hike for a few km. The canoeing and hiking trails looked pretty
good but it was now getting to 4.30pm so we headed back to the main
road and the river crossing where we set up our bush camp. It was a
pleasant enough spot amongst pine trees and close to the river on a
low headland about 20' above the water – which was flowing quite quickly
and was a little tannin stained. It wasn't raining but the mossies
were thick - we had read at the cultural centre that the blood
sucking insects (not only mossies but also black flies, midgies
and a host of other horse flies) can actually kill reindeer, they suck
so much blood. Out came the Air-o-Guard, the mossies calls and the
insect spray!
As we headed south all we saw was fir trees (pine trees) and occasionally
behind the screen of green a river or a lake. We did see the occasional
single reindeer, which was wandering down the centre of the road as
gaily as you please! Once again there are no wild reindeer in Finland
– they are all owned and farmed. We passed lots of small farms but
only a couple had any stock – 20 cows being the biggest, but we were
now in an area where they were growing and cutting a bit of grass.
We pushed on to Rovaniemi and got to Ounaskoski
Camping (GPS 66°29'50”N 25°44'35”E), which is located on
the opposite side of the river from the heart of the city centre.
It has all you require including a café and costs about A$32/night
for Viv and I. It started to rain again!!!
Finland, especially this region of Lappland is nowhere as rich as
Norway – the roadside stops are not as well maintained or the toilets
as clean. Older cars are more common and we even see the odd Russian
one. Prices in the shops are not as dear either but
still make Oz look pretty good – fuel is just $2.60-2.90 a litre while
a wine cask is down to $30-40.
Got to the Artic Circle and went and visited Santa at
his home – you just have to don't you. Of course we got the pic of
us with the happy old fella – it's a pretty slick operation to push
you through and take your money!!!
From there we headed down to Ranau and set up camp in a bog that doubles
as Ranau Camping . It was raining and the mossies
were fearsome!!! Next day we headed to the Ranau Zoo ,
which is definitely worthwhile. They have a few brown bears, polar
bears, wolverines, lynx and a few species of deer as well as all the
birds of prey. We spent about 4 hours there before pushing on to Oulu .
As we got closer to the west coast the country (and the climate) modified
and became milder. The farms became bigger and more prosperous with
cows and lots of grass being grown for hay. The road network increased
to a multi-lane highway and overpasses and all that – for a short time
at least. We tried one camp ground near Oulu – it
was a swamp; we tried another further south – it was not there! Finally
we got away from the city and surrounding areas with it's small holding
and got into more forested areas with larger farms in-between. Viv
even saw a moose not far off the road in a forested area - we had continually
seen the signs but had thought they were just decoration; but not so!
Finally stopped for the night at Raaha Camping , on
the coast at the township of Raaha. It was raining when we arrived,
the place was a swamp but by good design we had picked the high ground.
While we had travelled along the coast for some distance we still
hadn't actually seen it – because of the fir trees. WE detoured off
the main road and arriving at the coast at Heikkasarkat ,
just south of Kalajoki. It seems the place is one of their major summer resorts
and while it wouldn't rate too highly back in Oz it was crowded with
holiday makers. While there we even got interviewed by the local paper!
That night to get away from the mossies and the mud we stopped and
camped in a sand pit – it was a good camp.
Next day was an uneventful drive south to Lappeenranta passing
through the Lakes district of Finland – we even saw a lake or two amongst
the trees! Sometimes it seemed we were on a ridge of land between vast
stretches of water – more water than land as someone said. Found our
way to the Huhtiniemi Camping , which is located on
the very large lake that is beside the city. It was very pleasant camp
with all facilities, while the city itself is nice enough as well.
Next day it was to the south coast town of Kotka and to the Santalahti
Holiday Resort where we set up camp. This place is quite
big and well set-up with an underground Sauna, normal saunas and
more. It is right beside the coast and has all the facilities you'd
expect. We had three nights here and didn't do much except get ready
for the crossing into Russia, which is just up the road 50km away.
Got away from the park at 7.30 and headed east along the good road
to the border. The queue of trucks started about 29km from the border
and we counted at least 600 before we got to the BIG truck park at
the border itself.
Getting out of Finland was easy – a stamp in the passbook by Immigration
and a check by Customs that we had no duty to pay and away we went.
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